Bhutan, the "Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon," is no ordinary place. About the size of Switzerland, Bhutan is a remote land of peace and natural beauty. Almost all the country is mountainous, with furious rivers sourced from the high Himalaya, and over two-thirds is densely forested. The country's commitment to conservation is exemplified in a 1995 law that requires at least 60 percent of its land to remain forested. The dramatic landscape is colored by mighty dzongs (fortified monasteries), towering poles of fluttering Buddhist prayer flags, and lonely chortens (stone monuments containing religious relics and sometimes prayer wheels).
Flying from Kathmandu to Bhutan's only airport in Paro is literally a breath of fresh air. The contrast between the frenetic, choked capital of Nepal and the quietly civilized pace of life in Bhutan is as staggering as the view of Mt. Everest during the short flight.
Despite lacking any peaks over 8,000 meters, many of Bhutan's summits are eyed longingly by climbers. Jomolhari (7,314 meters), Bhutan's most sacred summit, was a famous landmark on early Everest expeditions. Yet Bhutan has opted not to sell its mountains to climbing expeditions. Fearful of areas ending up as high altitude rubbish dumps, like certain camps on Everest and other popular climbs, and out of respect for the religious sensitivities of its mountain populations, the Bhutanese are resisting the lure of the lucrative climbing gravy train. At 7,541 meters, Gangkhar Puensum remains the world's highest unclimbed summit. Many other lofty peaks remain unmapped let alone explored.
Trekking in Bhutan is permitted but only on around a dozen recognized trails. Given the rugged terrain, walking is the best, and often the only, way to reach isolated settlements and experience the real soul of this little-explored land. Even Bhutan's king walks. While I was on a trek with Nature Tourism-Bhutan (see "For More Info") to Jomolhari, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck strode in my footsteps as he traveled to meet subjects in remote settlements.